Saturday, August 21, 2010

How to Choose and Apply Blush

Applied correctly the right blush can make you look young, energized and glowy and provide contour and shape to the face. If applied incorrectly and/or in the wrong shade it can make you look garrish and clown-like and can even make you look older.
Achieving a nice flattering application of blush begins with the right color for your skin tone and type, and correct application technique.
When choosing a shade of blush it is important to be familiar with undertones in your skin and also in the makeup you choose. Undertones are classified as cool, warm or neutral. Cool undertones are charactarized by shades of pinks and blues. Warm undertones are characterized by shades of yellows and oranges. Neutral undertones are charactarized by a balance of both warm and cool.
If after reading this, you are still unsure what undertone you classify ask a makeup artist at your local department or beauty store. This is their job and they are usually happy to help.
Now that you know your skin undertone choose a complementary shade of blush. Pick a blush with the same undertones as your skin. Warm shades will be nge, yellow and brown-based. Cool shades will be beige, pink and blue-based. If you are neutral undertone you can usually get away with wearing warm or cool toned shades.
If you come across a shade and you are unsure if it would be classified as warm or cool ask a sales associate what they think or try the shade on. Even if you are unsure a sales associate will be able to tell you if the shade is flattering on your skin. And if it is not, she will most likely suggest a different shade that is flattering. Below are some suggestions of shades for each undertone
Warm
Nars blush in Madly
Mark Instant Blush Tint in Cheeky Pommette
Maybelline Dream Mousse Blush in Peach Satin
Cool
Tarte Cheek Stain in Blushing Bride
e.l.f. Studio Blush in Berry Merry
NYX Powder Blush in Raisin
Aside from the shade, the formula is also an important factor in choosing a blush. There are several formulas available these days from old fashioned powder, to cream, to stains and gels. Here is a quick guide to choosing a formula:
*Powder-great for all skin types, but especially oily skin. They can be highly pigmented and come in a range of finishes such as matte, shimmer and frost. They tend not to last as long as other formulas, but can be easily reapplied throughout the day.
*Cream- excellent for dry and mature skin. Most cream formulas give a dewy/glowy effect to the skin but that can be toned down with a translucent powder if not the desired effect. These tend to look more natural than other formulas. Not the best choice for oily or problem skin as cream blush may contain oils or other emollient ingredients that may cause this product to break down and wear off more quickly on oily skin. Different brands offer different formulas so check the ingredients to be sure.
*Stain- Work well for just about all skin types. Stains tend to be thin and somewhat runny and must be blended into the skin quickly because they really do "stain" the skin. They leave a translucent tinge of color and usually last all day with no touchups. For better blendability moisturize before applying.
*Gels- Last like a stain but blend more easily because the formula is more emollient. Must be blended into the skin fairly quickly to avoid uneven application. Good for all skin types.
Smiling while applying helps you find the apples of the cheeks. The apples of the cheeks are the area just under your eyes where you would naturally flush when excited, happy, or active. When you smile, the apples sort of "ball up" and become more prominent, making it easier to apply. Apply your blush starting at the apples of the cheeks and blend out towards hairline. The color should be most intense on the middle of the apples of the cheeks, and then should gradually fade out below the temple. Start with very little blush then add more until you have the desired intensity.
Tip: many blushes darken on the skin after about an hour of wear. This happens as the blush mixes with your skin's oils and other products on your face such as foundation. Keep this in mind when applying a blush for the first time.
If you apply too much blush or the lines look too harsh, take a clean fluffy brush such as a kabuki or a large powder brush. Swirl the brush in some translucent powder and vigorously buff over the apples of the cheeks and cheekbones. This will help to fade out any harsh lines and lighten the intensity of the blush.
For Cream, stain and gel formula blushes, use your fingertips to blend the product onto the apples of the cheeks and blend out toward hairline. If you prefer to use an applicator of some sort, try a synthetic foundation brush or a slightly dampened cosmetic wedge. A powder blush can be applied over cream or stain blushes to help set it or create a more dramatic effect. For an extra glow, apply a shimmery highlighter on the cheekbones above the apples of the cheeks. Set the entire application with a swipe of translucent powder.

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